Tips I Consider When Shopping for an Off Track Thoroughbred

Shopping for a horse can be an overwhelming endeavor, and it is very important to avoid being a "tire kicker" while still being picky enough to find the right horse for you.

​As I am currently in the process of shopping for my partner for the 2017 Thoroughbred Makeover, I thought it would be an appropriate time to share my thoughts about how I approach finding the right OTTB.

Tip 1: Write down your criteria

It's easy to have a picture in your head of what kind of horse you're hoping to find, but when you write it down it helps keep you accountable and focused. Even more important, it helps prevent you from ever looking at the horses you might think you will be able to talk yourself into purchasing despite the fact that they are an unrealistic match. If you have clear search criteria, it will narrow the scope of your search so that you are only looking at horses that are truly suitable prospects and prevent you from wasting your (and sellers') time.

For example, my criteria is:

• Thoroughbred - kind of obvious but still worth noting
• Raced in 2016 - necessary if I want to compete in the Makeover
• Mare/Filly - this is a non-negotiable for me
• 16.2+ hands - I'm 6'2" so this is a partial-negotiable if I come across a horse that is big-bodied with lots of bone. Let's also keep in mind though that sellers might inflate the size of their horses or may have just taken an educated guess about size when they created a listing, so sticking to this search criteria will probably end up slipping in some horses that are actually closer to 16 hands.
• Trainable with a kind eye and good brain - this does not eliminate a horse that is nervous or pushy because that is a behavior that can be influenced by training and environment. This criteria is really more based on intuition for me.
• Sound - this is NOT the same as no prior injuries! A horse who recovered successfully from surgery, has set osselets, etc can still be 100% sound without limitations. This also does not account for horses that move stiff in a jog video because a horse can be sound and still have a sore day. If you don't know how to evaluate whether it's related to general body soreness or a potentially more serious underlying issue, then I HIGHLY recommend taking someone along to look at horses with you who DOES feel comfortable making an evaluation, and then don't shy away from doing a pre-purchase exam.
• Less than $1,000 - ideally a donation from a race trainer that sees value in having a horse participate in the Makeover.
• Less than 5 hours away - this can be a negotiable based on price of horse. For example, a horse that a trainer is willing to donate that is located farther away might warrant consideration.

Notice I did not include color, conformation, or age on my list? I prefer chestnuts and bays, but since my main criteria is trainability (aka brain), color has very little to do with my decision. Conformation can be very subjective, and simply saying, "she needs to have a good shoulder," doesn't take into account the total picture. Additionally, a horse that is pigeon toed and raced 50 times probably isn't affected by her conformation "fault." Regarding age, I would almost always choose an older horse that remained sound than a younger horse who raced very few times. The older horse will usually have a more mature brain and has already proven her physical soundness while the younger horse may still be mentally immature and have only raced a handful of times due to physical setback. A young horse should not be presumed to be the best horse.

Tip 2: Be realistic and identify your negotiables

The main point here is to accept the reality that you will most likely NOT find the elusive unicorn - the horse for less than $1,000 who meets all your criteria - so be prepared in advance to know where you can and cannot compromise. After you have a list of criteria, it's important to be honest with yourself about what might not be a required item on your list - I called some of those out above in Tip 1.

For example, I am willing to work with a horse that has osselets OR nervous behavior, but since I will most likely be re-selling my next horse I can't take both. I want my 2017 Makeover horse to ultimately be a partner for an Adult Amateur or Junior rider, and in order to make that happen I have to trust that the horse will have a calm enough brain after training. Osselets will not be a problem for an amateur showing locally, but if the horse is too "hot" then it won't be a match. On the other side, a professional could be the right rider for a more challenging horse, but a professional may be limited by the osselets.

If you're 5'2", do you really need a 17-hand horse, or is that more of a "nice to have"? Do you really plan to compete at Rolex, or would a horse with a prior injury probably be 100% suitable to keep you competitve at local shows? Is a gray really more trail-safe than a chestnut? Know the difference between a "must" and a "nice to have," and be honest with yourself about your abilities and goals as a horse person.

Tip 3: Stick to your budget

As someone who also sells horses, I can tell you firsthand that one of the quickest ways to create a bad reputation for yourself is to be a "tire kicker," and the fastest way to do that is to look at horses you will most likely never purchase. This is why it is so important to first narrow your search results and then stick to them. 

One of the main criteria about which buyers seem to lie to themselves is price. If you are not able to be negotiable on your budget, then you shouldn't even waste a seller's time by going to look at a horse that is clearly over your budget. Going to look at a horse that is priced above what you're willing to pay will only result in one of two outcomes:

• You will waste everyone's time looking at a horse you know you can't afford
• You will offend a seller by offering a low-ball amount

Do not kid yourself into believing that you can ACTUALLY get the $5,000 horse for $2,000, and if that is your hope, then you need to discuss that up front with the seller before even scheduling time to see the horse.

Tip 4: Do your research

Knowing as much about a horse before you meet it will not only help inform your decision, but it can also help you stand out to a seller. Finding out information about a racehorse is even easier thanks to all the resources available on the internet.

My baseline for research before I commit to meeting a horse (or buying one sight unseen) includes:

• Clear conformation photo - in today's digital era, a seller should be able to provide you with recent clear photos
• Video of movement - I love videos of the horses running at liberty, but at a minimum I at least like to see a clip of the horse walking. Another great tool to see a racehorse's movement is to watch their racing videos on Equibase.com under the "Results" tab on a horse's page. You will need to have a subscription to watch race videos, but if you watch after the finish you can typically catch some moments of trot and/or canter.
• Pedigree - I'm a total nerd when it comes to pedigree. I love finding connections to horses I already have in my barn or famous horses. I always check out Pedigreequery.com on every horse I'm considering. I wrote an earlier blog post that goes into this type of research in more detail titled Researching Your Thoroughbred's Pedigree to Identify Sporthorse Potential.
• Racing history - It's important to know how many times and how recently a horse ran. This can be a great indicator for their soundness or an explanation for why they might move a little "off" due to being body sore from a recent race. A horse that has poor conformation but recently raced and has 20+ races in their lifetime is more appealing to me than a horse that only ran a few times and/or has large gaps between races. The horse with poor conformation that is racing consistently has proven she can remain sound regardless, and the horse with lots of gaps might prompt me to ask questions about the reasons. Think of it as the "provide reasons for any gaps in your employment" question often found on job applications. I rely on the "Results" tab on Equibase.com for racing history, and there is also a tab for "Workouts" and "Entries."
• I highly recommend using a shopping questionnaire similar to the extremely comprehensive one found at www.equinelegalsolutions.com/horse-buying-checklist.html This is a great way to ensure you are asking the right questions. By asking questions before you even schedule time to meet a horse, you are saving everyone time in the long run.
• Ask your seller if they are open to a Pre-Purchase Exam (PPE). This is something I typically skip, but I still highly recommend to anyone shopping for a horse. A PPE will not reveal everything about a horse to you, but it will certainly give you a lot more valuable information since it is coming from a licensed professional. If you are not prepared to commit to a horse with a pre-existing condition and are not comfortable fully assessing a horse's soundness on your own, then this is a MUST.

Tip 5: Make a decision and follow-up

If you find a horse that meets all your non-negotiable criteria, don't sleep on it too long. A good horse for the right price will not stay on the market for long. 

And if you decide to pass on a horse, give the seller the courtesy of letting them know. You don't need to tell them exactly why (although most would appreciate the feedback), but at least let them know you are no longer a potential buyer.

Final Tip: Racing is a different sport

This may seem obvious, but never forget that racing is different from riding for pleasure or showing. I am pointing this out because it is important to keep in mind that requests you might believe completely normal could actually raise an eyebrow. Additionally, answers you receive might mean something different than what you perceive.

For example, when racehorse professionals shop for prospects at a Thoroughbred sale, they typically only watch the horse at the walk and judge their conformation. Sporthorse people almost always expect to evaluate a horse at the trot. This is not to say that racehorse professionals will refuse to trot a horse for you, but it is just to call out that it may be viewed as unnecessary by some trainers so don't be surprised at a raised eyebrow if you ask them to continue jogging the horse back and forth. Although this may be intended as being thorough on your part, it could be perceived as a lack of education or experience making you seem less likely to be a serious buyer and more like a "tire kicker."

Along those same lines, always seek to understand without coming to premature conclusions. A horse with wrapped or poulticed legs is very normal at the track. If you approach each seller with a humble spirit seeking to learn more, you may end up with a great new connection even if you don't end up buying a horse from that individual.